Renowned chef Tawnya Brant expresses her admiration for pawpaw fruits, referring to them as a cherished surprise. These tropical-flavored fruits are grown locally in Canada and are a delightful culinary experience according to Brant, the proprietor of Yawékon Foods and host of APTN’s show “One Dish One Spoon.”
Brant, a Mohawk chef hailing from Six Nations of the Grand River, describes pawpaws as a fusion of banana, mango, and pineapple flavors with a creamy texture that turns almost caramel-like as it ripens. She compares them to “alien bananas,” shorter and plumper with an oval shape and large seeds inside.
Pawpaws have been a native North American fruit for centuries, flourishing from Florida to Missouri and southern Ontario. They were traditionally cultivated by Indigenous communities before being displaced due to land clearing for agriculture. Despite still growing in the wild and in select orchards in regions like southern Ontario, British Columbia, and Quebec, pawpaws remain relatively obscure due to their short shelf life and delicate nature, making commercial cultivation challenging.
Thomas Mathias, a farmer from Ontario’s Niagara region, shares his journey of cultivating pawpaws over the past 15 years. It took him extensive experimentation and research before successfully harvesting a crop. Mathias credits the use of llama and horse manure, attracting blue bottle flies for pollination, as a key technique for fruit production.
Beth Secord, Mathias’s sister and farm partner, praises the tropical appearance of pawpaw trees with their large leaves and unique flowers resembling upside-down burgundy tulips. The farm yields approximately 250 to 300 pounds of fruit annually, sold at $20 per pound. The increased interest in pawpaws has led to growing demand, driven by positive feedback and word-of-mouth referrals.
Brant suggests seeking pawpaws at farmers’ markets or specialized festivals held in certain Canadian regions, typically in early October. They can be utilized in various dishes such as salad dressings, sauces, or even a pawpaw cheesecake. However, she advises caution due to their intense flavor and warns against consuming the skin and seeds, which are toxic.
Brant’s personal ambition is to cultivate her own pawpaw trees to incorporate the fruit more frequently in her cooking and share this unique delicacy with others. She regards pawpaws as a precious annual gift and looks forward to expanding awareness and appreciation for this exceptional fruit.
